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- How important is the ocean in the Earth system?
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- The scientific study of the ocean using chemistry, biology, physics,
geology, and other sciences
- Oceans cover more than 70% of Earth’s surface
- HMS Challenger- 1st large-scale ocean research project (1872)
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- sonar
- deep sea corers
- mini submarines
- satellites
- buoys
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- Salinity and Temperature are two characteristics of water masses that
help scientists study oceans and their behavior.
- Salinity- a measure of the dissolved salts in water
- Oceanographers calculate salinity by measuring the electrical
conductivity of seawater (the greater the quantity of dissolved salts,
the stronger the electric current).
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- Chloride- 55%
- Sodium- 31%
- Sulfate- 8%
- Magnesium- 4%
- Others- 2%
- Ocean water contains salts in the form of dissolved ions
- The most common salt in seawater is Sodium Chloride (NaCl)
- Humans and marine life depend on the elements found in ocean water
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- Salinity is higher in areas that are extremely hot or cold.
- In hot, dry climates, oceans lose
water rapidly because of evaporation, leaving salts behind (greater
salinity). This occurs between 20°
and 40° north and south of the equator.
- In polar climates, when seawater freezes, only freshwater ice forms,
leaving salts behind in the remaining water.
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- Ocean water is heated by the sun, but sunlight is only absorbed in the
top few meters of water, leaving the rest of the ocean water very cold.
- Ocean temperature decreases
rapidly with depth!
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- Mixed Layer (ocean’s surface region)
- Middle Zone (thermocline)
- Deep Water (polar water)
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- Layer at the ocean’s surface where wind and waves mix heat evenly
- Absorbs almost all of the sun’s light
- Most marine life is found in this layer
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- Also called the thermocline
- This layer is found directly beneath the mixed layer.
- Temperature drops very rapidly here.
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- This layer contains polar water masses that are very cold and dense.
- This cold, dense water moves away
from the polar regions along the ocean floor and spreads itself over the
globe beneath other ocean water.
- Here, temperatures are about 2°C.
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- Occurs in the mixed layer
- Many types of photosynthetic organisms live here
- Phytoplankton (single-celled organisms that float freely) are the most
common
- Diatoms, a type of phytoplankton, are the primary energy source for the
marine ecosystem
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- Marine animals need phytoplankton to survive
- These include Zooplankton, coral, and nekton (free-swimming organisms
such as fish, reptiles, whales, squid, jellyfish, etc.)
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- Deep in the ocean there is very little sunlight and oxygen, but some
animals do survive.
- The animals live near vents, called smokers.
- Smokers are vents that release hot water into the cold deep ocean water.
- This allows bacteria to survive, which then becomes food for other organisms.
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- Echo sounding (sonar)- A device sends a sound signal through the water
to the sea floor. Scientists
track how long it takes for the signal to reach the bottom and echo back
to the surface.
- Sediment sampling- Core samples of the ocean floor are taken. The layers are studied to see how
climate and atmosphere have changed over millions of years.
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- Satellite Observations- provide a greater range and speed in the mapping
process. Signals bounce off the oceans surface, which gives information
about what lies beneath the surface (ex. It is slightly higher over
undersea mountains and slightly lower over trenches).
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- The continental margin is the underwater part of the continental crust.
- The margin consists of the continental shelf, the continental slope, and
a continental rise or trench.
- Continental shelf- part of a continent that extends from the shoreline
to the continental slope
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- Continental slope- begins at the shelf edge, where water depth begins to
increase rapidly
- Continental rise- several kilometers thick, and descends gradually from
the continental slope to the ocean floor
- Not all continental margins have continental rises. Some will have a trench instead.
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- Occurs when an oceanic plate subducts under a continental plate.
- Continental shelf is narrow
- Continental slope is steep
- Trenches are present here instead of a continental rise
- ex) The western coast of South America
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- Not located at plate boundaries
- This margin is very broad and ends at the continental slope.
- Ex) The Atlantic Coast of North America
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- Large underwater valleys
- Can be created by turbidity currents (great landslides of mud and sand
that speed down continental slopes)
- Turbidity currents carve a canyon from the continental shelf to the
ocean floor
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- Ocean basins have a wide range of topographical features.
- These features include abyssal plains, abyssal hills, island arcs, fracture
zones, seamounts, guyots, and coral atolls.
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- Abyssal Plains
- the flattest of all Earth’s surfaces
- composed of sediments from continents that were deposited there
- Abyssal Hills
- small, rolling hills that often occur in groups next to oceanic ridge
systems
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- Long, narrow, steep-sided troughs that run parallel to continental
margins or to volcanic island chains (island arcs)
- Oceanic-continental convergent boundary- marginal trench forms a line of
volcanoes on the overriding continental plate forms
- Oceanic-oceanic convergent boundary- volcanic island arc forms on the overriding
oceanic plate
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- Black smokers (geyser that erupts under water) are created along
mid-ocean ridges
- Mid-ocean ridges form at divergent boundaries and create rift valleys
and fracture zones
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- Seamounts
- Cone-shaped mountain peaks that rise high above the deep ocean floor
- Typically found in clusters or rows
- Ex) The Emperor Seamount Chain
- Guyots
- Flat-topped seamounts
- Tops were removed by wave action when they were above sea level
- Sinking of oceanic crust then lowers the tops of the guyots
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- An atoll is a ring-shaped coral island.
- These form when a coral reef develops around a volcanic island. When the oceanic crust beneath the
island sinks, it will go beneath sea level, leaving behind a circle of
coral reef (barrier reef) with a lagoon
in the middle.
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- Sediments cover the ocean floor in thick layers.
- Sediments include sand, muds, clays, and oozes (sediments made from
microscopic shells from dead organisms)
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- Sediments that come from continental rocks and minerals broken down
through weathering and erosion.
- Can leave the continents by river or as icebergs broken off of glaciers
that melt in the ocean water
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- Sediments on the ocean floor that come from living sources (oozes)
- These sediments are made mostly of shells and skeletons of marine
animals
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- Form when chemical reactions cause minerals to crystallize from seawater
- The most common type are manganese modules
- These lumps of minerals contain important metals that are important for
industry
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- Layers of sediment contain important information about Earth’s history,
such as the pattern of changes in Earth’s climate.
- Scientists can also study the remains of sea creatures, the history of
water temperatures on the ocean floor, and past behavior of prevailing
winds.
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- What types of currents flow at the ocean’s surface?
- What drives ocean currents below the surface?
- What factors influence the rising and falling of the tides?
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- Ocean currents involve large water masses and are any continuous flow of
water along a broad path in the ocean.
- Currents can flow at the surface or far below it.
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- A surface current is an ocean current that generally flows in the upper 1000
meters of the ocean.
- This type of current is created by wind.
- Surface currents in the Northern Hemisphere turn clockwise, and in the
Southern Hemisphere turn counterclockwise. (see p. 4 in your reference
tables!).
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- Currents that flow away from the equator carry warm water, and currents
that flow toward the equator carry cold water.
- Earth’s rotation and presence of continents influence the paths of
currents, but surface currents are mainly caused by wind.
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- Trade winds and westerly winds form most ocean currents.
- The trade winds blow from the NE in the Northern Hemisphere and the SE
in the Southern Hemisphere
- The westerlies blow from SW in the Northern Hemisphere and the NW in the
Southern Hemisphere
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- Warm currents- flow away from the equator (ex. The Gulf Stream in the
North Atlantic)
- Cold currents- flow toward the equator
- (ex. The California Current in
the North Pacific)
- Gulf Stream Rings-eddies or whirlpools that break away from the edge of
a current
- Countercurrents- flow in the opposite direction of the wind-related
currents (occur along the equator)
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- These currents are driven by gravity and differences in density.
- A density current is heavier and denser than surrounding water.
- These currents sink toward the bottom of the ocean where they circulate
for 500-2000 years before resurfacing.
- These are found in all oceans.
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- The most dense water comes from the poles.
- There are three main water masses:
Antarctic Bottom Water, North Atlantic Deep Water, and Antarctic
Intermediate Water
- Antarctic Bottom Water is the coldest, densest water (-0.4°C)
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- When seawater evaporates, salt in water is left behind, increasing both
salinity and density of the remaining water.
- An example of this is in the Mediterranean Sea. Water here is very dense.
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- Upwelling is a kind of vertical current in the oceans.
- It occurs when surface water is displaced by winds or density currents.
- The cold, deep water rises to replace the surface water.
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- Tides are the periodic rise and fall of the ocean surface due to the
gravitational pulls of the moon and sun.
- The position of the moons and sun relative to Earth affect the time and
height of the tides.
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- When the moon is new or full, tides rise higher than normal.
- When the moon is at its quarter phases, tides are lower than normal.
- This is caused by gravity.
- Gravity is stronger when two objects are closer together!
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- The moon pulls the water on the side of Earth nearest it strongly. This creates a bulge in the ocean on
this side and on the opposite side.
- Because the moon revolves around Earth, the bulges also move around the
Earth.
- The moon rises about 50 minutes later each day, and so do the tides.
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- The sun has the same type of effect on the oceans as the moon, but on a smaller
scale because it is so far away.
- However, when the sun is in line with the moon and Earth, high tides are
very high, and low tides are very low.
- This occurs twice a month and are called spring tides.
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- At quarter phases, the moon and the sun are not in line with Earth, and
the sun’s tidemaking effect is subtracted from the moon’s.
- When this occurs, high tides are not very high, and low tides are not
very low.
- This also occurs twice a month and are called neap tides.
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- Perigee
- When the moon is at perigee, it is at its closest point to Earth in its
orbit.
- The tidal effect will be greater.
- Apogee
- When the moon is at apogee, it is at its farthest point from Earth.
- The tidal effect is less.
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- The difference in the water level between high tide and low tide is
called the tidal range.
- Tidal ranges are more noticeable on oceans than lakes and vary greatly
along the shores.
- The shape of the shoreline determines the tidal range.
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